Category Archives: Collections

Times Square and Vicinity

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Crossroads of the world, heart of the city that never sleeps – the only place where there are crowds on a cold Sunday afternoon. And the only place where bright lights are part of the zoning regulations: You have to have a big electric display on your facade.

Bit by bit, the stately old-guard stone and terra cotta buildings of the early 1900s are being replaced by glass and steel towers, some with bizarre shapes and colors. The building that pretty much started it all – One Times Square, the one-time headquarters of The New York Times – is still there, but hardly in its 1905 form. Allied Chemical covered it in white marble in 1964, and it has since become a 25-story electric signboard. The Paramount Building also survives, along with some theater buildings between Seventh and Eighth Avenues and Bush Tower between Broadway and Sixth Avenue (Avenue of the Americas). Up and down the uptown side streets (43rd – 47th) are plenty of landmark-quality buildings, though – and not just theaters.

You’ll find several distinctive old clubs in the area, and the art deco treasure McGraw-Hill Building and the Port Authority Bus Terminal. You’re also just a hop, skip and a jump from Bryant Park and the main branch of the New York Public Library.

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Maritime Buildings

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Once upon a time the National Maritime Union was so big it had three “headquarters” buildings in New York: The actual headquarters on Seventh Avenue between 12th and 13th Streets (Joseph Curran Building, 1964); an annex between 16th and 17th Streets just off Ninth Avenue (Joseph Curran Annex, 1966); and then a plaza – an annex to the annex if you will – that ran along Ninth Avenue (Joseph Curran Plaza, 1968). All three of the so-called Maritime Buildings were architectural standouts, designed by Bronx-born but New Orleans-based architect Albert C. Ledner.

Alas, New York’s maritime jobs dried up and the union sold all three buildings.

St. Vincent Catholic Medical Centers acquired the headquarters and renamed it the Edward & Theresa O’Toole Medical Services Building. St. Vincent’s later (2007) wanted to replace the O’Toole Building with a new 21-story hospital, but official NYC Landmark status (as part of the Greenwich Village Historic District) apparently saved it – temporarily. The Landmarks Commission later (2011) granted a “hardship” exemption allowing demolition. As of November, 2011, the plan is to keep the shell but demolish the interior and build a smaller facility: 140,000 square feet, down from 160,00 square feet. The conversion is to be completed by November, 2015.

Covenant House purchased the annex and plaza, after fighting off a challenge by then-Mayor Ed Koch, who wanted the buildings for a prison; later the plaza building was converted to the Maritime Hotel. The annex itself has been converted to the Dream Downtown Hotel. This is actually the second renovation of the annex. The building originally had 100 porthole windows in its sloping 12-story white tile facade; in later years the new owners built fake brick storefronts at ground level in an attempt to better blend in with the neighborhood (pictured on p. 179 of “Five Hundred Buildings of New York”). The Dream Downtown Hotel conversion has removed the fake storefronts and applied a metal skin. The windows are still round, but there are more of them on the 17th Street side and the overall effect is more like Swiss cheese rather than portholes. The 16th Street facade is now vertical, not sloping, and covered with a perforated dual-layer metal skin that frames 35 very large circular “windows” which are actually tiny balconies. The real (floor to ceiling) windows are behind.

The plaza building has changed the least. It was originally built as a dormitory for seamen; the nautical-themed hotel conversion was natural. And from the outside, “pizza box” is still an apt description.

Joseph Curran Building Vital Statistics
  • Location: 36 Seventh Avenue between W 12th and W 13th Streets
  • Year completed: 1964
  • Architect: Albert C. Ledner
  • Floors: 6
  • Style: Modern
  • New York City Landmark: 1969 (part of Greenwich Village Historic District)
Joseph Curran Annex Vital Statistics
  • Location: 355 W 16th Street between Eighth and Ninth Avenues
  • Year completed: 1966
  • Architect: Albert C. Ledner
  • Floors: 12
  • Style: Modern
Joseph Curran Plaza Vital Statistics
  • Location: 363 West 16th Street at 9th Avenue
  • Year completed: 1968
  • Architect: Albert C. Ledner
  • Floors: 12
  • Style: Modern
Maritime Buildings Suggested Reading

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Siegel-Cooper Buildings

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The Siegel-Cooper Dry Goods Store, designed by DeLemos & Cordes (New York), was the world’s largest store when opened in September 1896. The Beaux Arts-style building on Sixth Avenue between 18th and 19th Streets had the other distinction of being the first steel-framed store in New York City. The same architect designed the Siegel-Cooper warehouse a few blocks away. (And in 1902 De Lemos & Cordes designed Macy’s Herald Square – which took over the “world’s largest” title with its expansion in 1924.*)

The current tenants at 620 Sixth Avenue are Bed Bath & Beyond, T.J. Maxx, and Marshalls.

The warehouse/wagon house is a block-through building with entrances on 17th and 18th Streets, between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. The 18th Street Side is currently used by Barneys New York.

Siegel-Cooper Building Vital Statistics
  • Location: 616 Sixth Avenue between W 18th and W 19th Streets
  • Year completed: 1897
  • Architect: De Lemos & Cordes
  • Floors: 6
  • Style: Beaux Arts
Siegel-Cooper Warehouse Vital Statistics
  • Location: 249 W 17th Street block-through to 236 W 18th Street between Seventh and Eight Avenues
  • Year completed: 1902
  • Architect: De Lemos & Cordes
  • Floors: 6
Siegel-Cooper Buildings Suggested Reading

*Korean chain Shinsegae took over the title in 2009 with a store in Busan.

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Upper West Side – Broadway and Vicinity

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Broadway from 71st Street (where it crosses Amsterdam Avenue) north to the low 90s is rich in architectural landmarks, from block-size giants to mere townhouses. West End Avenue, Amsterdam Avenue and Columbus Avenue have their share of New York classics, as well.

Here are 96 images taken from a rambling walk through the Upper West Side, from 96th Street down to 71st Street.

This section includes some notable landmarks that each have their own photo galleries: The Ansonia, Apthorp Apartments, The Dorilton, The Evelyn, and The Pythian.

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Central Park West (62nd-96th Streets)

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New York’s Central Park and the architecture along Central Park West have a symbiotic relationship – each enhances the other.

There’s no question that a park view multiplies the value and enjoyment of an apartment – and the grand architecture also adds to the views from within the park. (Incidentally, Central Park paths are lighted because Central Park West tenants complained that the unlit park was an unattractive black void in their nighttime views, according to Greensward Foundation’s “The Central Park.”)

The Upper West Side/Central park West Historic District extends from 62nd Street to 96th Street at a depth of from one building at its narrowest to more than two blocks at its widest. Within this area are some cherished New York architectural landmarks: iconic luxury apartment buildings such as the Century, San Remo, Majestic, Eldorado, Dakota and Bereford; several noteworthy places of worship; the American Museum of Natural History; and, along side streets, scores of row houses in brick and brownstone.

Central Park West is almost entirely residential, filled with grand, luxury apartments. The Dakota is preeminent among those residences, and “The Dakota – A History of the World’s Best-Known Apartment Building” is the preeminent history of this Central Park West icon. Noted architectural historian Andrew Alpern documents the building, its builder (and family!), the architect, the neighborhood, the architectural and historical context, and even the Dakota’s residents. Fascinating reading that illuminates not only The Dakota, but also the world of apartment living in New York City. I’m honored that he chose photos from the Dakota Apartments gallery to help illustrate the volume.

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Financial District

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The Financial District is where New York City’s architectural diversity started, and where it still flourishes thanks to preservation. From West Street east to Water Street, Cedar Street south to Battery Park, it seems that every other building is a past or future landmark. Nothing that I write here even comes close to doing the district justice.

Recycling seems to be a big part of the area’s preservation: Office buildings that might otherwise have been razed have been converted to condos, hotels and even schools. Notable examples include 21 West Street, Whitehall Building, Delmonico’s, Cipriani Club Residences, Bank of New York Building, Downtown by Philippe Starck, and Empire Apartments. I suppose that if you’re a top exec in the Financial District, it’s nice to be able to walk to work. But where do you shop for fresh food? I didn’t notice any supermarkets….

Photographers will find lots to snap – and lots of challenges. The “canyons” metaphor is so appropriate for the Wall Street area – tall buildings and very narrow streets: Some building facades are in almost perpetual shadow; some of the most interesting architectural details can only be seen from blocks away. Post-9/11 and Occupy Wall Street barricades limit your viewpoints. Last but not least, this is a huge tourist attraction, so resign yourself: A photo of the George Washington statue or the Bull at Bowling Green will include goofy strangers in sometimes weird poses.

NOTE: This gallery has 200 images.

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Ladies Mile

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The Ladies Mile Historic District – the heart of what was an even larger shopping district – ranges roughly from 15th Street to 24th Street, Sixth Avenue to Broadway. Retail “dry goods” giants of the 19th and 20th Centuries built palaces befitting their wares; most of the giants are now only ghosts, but some of the architecture has been preserved for New Yorker’s viewing (and even shopping) pleasure.

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TriBeCa Tour

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Though its main claim to fame in recent years is its film festival, TriBeCa (Triangle Below Canal) is an amazing architectural showcase, encompassing five New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission-designated historic districts. Although the protected areas date back to the 1700s, recent restoration, reconstruction and renovation makes many blocks look new – only the styles are old.

Founded as a residential neighborhood, the neighborhood became a commercial center in the mid-1800s – greatly expanded in the early 1900s thanks to new IRT Seventh Avenue and Ninth Avenue (later demolished) subway lines. Fickle industry moved out in the mid-1900s, and by 1970 the neighborhood’s population was down to 370. Artists started moving in, sparking large-scale conversion of commercial space to residences – and sky-high rents that now exclude artists!

One of the striking features of TriBeCa is the imaginative and colorful use of brick – sometimes on a massive scale. The Verizon Building (6th Avenue & Walker Street) and 60 Hudson Street (former Verizon Headquarters) (Hudson and Worth Streets) are the most prominent examples. Other standouts are 451 Washington Street (at Watts Street), Greenwich Court (apartments) (Greenwich Street between Murray and Chambers Streets), American Express Horse Stables (Collister Street between Laight and Hubert Streets) and Powell Building (corner of Hudson and Franklin Streets).

You’ll see how architects paint rich textures by using bricks of different colors, sizes and bonds (layering patterns). Bottom line: After touring TriBeCa, you’ll no longer think of brick as a dull red building material.

The maps and reports linked below provide very detailed information about Tribeca’s architectural heritage:

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Bond Street – NOHO

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For a two-block stretch of New York real estate, cobblestone Bond Street packs a lot of architectural delights. Although Bond Street spans two landmark districts (NoHo Historic District and NoHo Historic District Extension), several high-priced condominium conversions on the street are anything but historic in appearance. Alas, landmark designation came in May 2008, after the original buildings had been demolished/rebuilt in modern styles.

The modern standouts in our photo gallery are numbers 25, 40, 41, 48 and 57 Bond Street; the “classics” are 670 Broadway, 1-5, 7-9, 24, and 54 Bond Street.

The cast green glass facade and white aluminum street-level filigree screen of 40 Bond are irresistible (to me). But directly across the street, 41 is impressively subdued monochromatic bluestone. Even the fire hydrant blends in. A few doors down, number 48’s grey granite facade is livened by the projection of random window panes – like giant glass teardrops.

At Bond Street’s western end, 670 Broadway’s brick and granite dates from 1873 and was originally Brooks Brothers’ home; across the street, 1-5 Bond Street is white cast iron construction with a Mansard roof. Just east of Lafayette Street, Gene Frankel Theatre resides at 24 Bond Street. This is the street’s playful element, with gilt dancers cavorting across and up three of the building’s six stories. (Robert Mapplethorpe’s studio was here 1972-1989.) At the Bowery end of Bond Street, number 54 is another cast iron building, the former Bond Street Savings Bank.

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SoHo

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SoHo is (according to New York’s Landmarks Preservation Commission designation report) the world’s largest concentration of cast iron facades. The style emphasizes floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows. My personal favorite is the Singer Building on Broadway – an L-shaped building with its second entrance on Prince Street. The row of buildings along the west side of Broadway is predominantly block-through structures with back entrances on Mercer Street.

Most visitors to SoHo (South of Houston – which New Yorkers pronounce How-ston) are more interested in shopping than in architecture: The district has become a designer outlet, missing only a free parking lot. Even Canal Street – once the preserve of scrap, tool, and junk shops – is becoming semi-respectable.

As you tour the area you may notice “A.I.R.” painted on some buildings. That stands for “Artist In Residence” to alert the Fire Department that the lofts may be occupied.

SoHo Historic District as defined by the Landmarks Commission extends from Houston Street south to Canal Street, and from West Broadway east to Crosby Street. This gallery includes some buildings (even-numbered) from the west side of West Broadway and St. Anthony of Padua Roman Catholic Church (on Sullivan Street off Houston Street).

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